Lions and Zebras and Crocs! Oh My!!
March is the month of holidays in Dar es Salaam. So, when a friend called me early last week and asked if I wanted to go on a four-day camping safari to Selous Game Reserve during the Easter holiday, I jumped at the chance. I have been on safari to Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro Crater but had never been to Selous. I was not aware of how vast Selous is. According to our tour guide, it is larger than Denmark and four times the size of the Serengeti!
Early Thursday morning, I trudged out of my comfortable bed in Mikocheni and began the trek to town. By 7:30 a.m., I was attempting an awkward nap in the backseat of our Landcruiser. The ride to Selous is roughly six hours and the last three hours on dirt roads repeatedly awaken the groggy passenger. Upon arrival at our campsite, Hippo Camp, we pleasantly found our tents situated about four meters from the Rufiji River. We dropped off our backpacks in our respective tents and relaxed for a couple hours. I sat in front of the river and kept an eye out for the occasional hippo head poking out of the water. Then, my friends and I climbed back into the Landcruiser for an afternoon drive in Selous.
We detached the three panels from the roof of the car and stood on the seats to better view the animals. My three friends are Tanzanian and so the constant herds of impala did not impress them, but from my American perspective, every animal was new and exciting. It wasn’t long before I was dubbed ‘National Geographic’ due to my camera’s constant activity. We saw baboons, impala, giraffes, elephants and zebras during the afternoon drive and then headed back to camp.
At the campsite, we enjoyed the sunset over the Rufiji River and played cards. Peter, the manager of Hippo Camp, introduced himself and we chatted for a while. Our amazing chef prepared a wonderful dinner, after which I made myself comfortable in my tent and dozed off.
Friday’s agenda was an all-day drive in Selous. My friends and I had a single goal—we were on a mission to see lions. The morning drive was filled with impala and giraffes. To me, the sight of a giraffe running is like a slow-motion Discovery channel documentary. One giraffe was at full speed and still managed to clear a large branch lying on the ground. I was amazed that he knew the branch was there—he stands so high above the ground! Although I documented all our sightings on my Canon, we were still focused on the mission—lions.
Around lunchtime, we saw the universal sign of lions—a hushed mass of green safari vehicles, the silence broken only by the incessant snap of camera shutters. Our guide maneuvered our Landcruiser into the cluster and there they were—an adult male, three lionesses and five cubs! The male was stretched out on his back lazily yawning and occasionally swatting the flies buzzing near his eyes. The lionesses were dispersed. One lounged in a tree. Another slept peacefully near the male and the other lioness seemed to be keeping watch over the rambunctious cubs. The cubs playfully attacked each other and entertained their captive audience of assorted vehicles.
One cub, in particular, seemed to be interested in befriending the observers. He would come close to the vehicles and stare curiously at the people staring curiously back at him. When he got too close, the lioness would approach, and he would run back to her and mischievously attack. It amazes me how harmless lions seem in the middle of the day. They appear to be nothing more than oversized lazy cats. It is hard to imagine them as ferocious hunters. After about thirty minutes of observation, we moved on, satisfied to have accomplished the day’s mission.
The following morning, we ignored the ominous clouds gathering in the sky and went on a boat safari along the Rufiji River. We saw several different types of birds and miniature crocs the guide referred to as Nile Crocodiles. After about an hour, we stumbled onto a group of hippos. Hippos are my favorite animals. Although I am aware that they are very dangerous and territorial, I love their huge yawns and their lethargic, half-hearted attempts to roll over—revealing bright pink bellies and feet.
Our dismissal of the threatening sky, however, caught up with us during the boat safari. In true Tanzania rainy season style, the sky opened up and poured buckets of rain. Although the boat’s tarpaulin roof provided a bit of protection, water streamed in through the sides and soaked us. We hurried back to Hippo Camp, but were dripping by the time we arrived. I decided to take advantage of the fact that I was already wet and it was still pouring, so I played in the rain. I love rain.
After the deluge, we went back to Selous. There, we encountered more of the same animals. Driving by the spot where we saw the lions the previous day, we noticed they were still there. So, we stopped and watched them again. On the way back to camp, we did see a new animal—a buffalo!
Sunday, we had just enough time for another quick boat safari—this time around, a much drier ride. We saw more hippos and birds and saw a large crocodile slide effortlessly into the water. Then, we went back to camp and packed our things. After saying goodbye to Peter, we loaded into the Landcruiser and began the drive back to Dar. Our guide had impeccable taste in music and so the ride home was filled with Bob Marley tunes.
At home, I downloaded my pictures onto my laptop and marveled at the immense beauty of Tanzania. This country is teeming with natural wonders. My Easter holiday was definitely one that will be envied by my friends back in the USA!
